The Lundy experience 2018


For those new to this trip, Lundy, lying off the North Devon coast, has long been a special venue for climbers with a sense of adventure. As early as the late 1890’s Tom Longstaff visited the island but sadly no records exist of his exploits. The first recorded ascents by climbers, was not until 1961 and since then Lundy has been the site of many an adventure!

The rock is granite and varies from superb to exfoliating gravel but worry not, the guidebook is well packed with starred quality routes! Grades on the island start around severe, though to get the most from the venue climbing VS and above opens up many fine routes. With 2008’s new guide there are new classics in the making ready to be bagged. Most of the island’s venues require involved and sometimes serious approaches. It is not the place for the faint of heart.

Getting to Lundy is an adventure in itself, with the graceful MS Oldenburg ferry, taking visitors this year, from Ilfracombe. Once on the island you are transported back to earlier times with no roads, no cars, only fresh air and wildlife to enjoy, oh and there’s some climbing too!

Other amenities include the island shop and the, atmospheric, Marisco Tavern which serves a fine selection of beers. One of the Marisco’s quirks is a £1 fine if you dare use your mobile whilst in the Tavern!

Guided

If ferry times allow, the trip commences as soon as we land (sailing time TBA) so clients will need to have in their hand luggage appropriate kit for an afternoon’s climbing. This should include food and drink + enough space for a rope. Your main luggage is delivered to your accommodation so don’t leave any essential items in your big bag. Three / four days climbing is the norm with the last day being a short session to enable one and all to catch the return ferry. A full kit list is provided upon booking (all ropes and rack are provided).


Non-guided

As with guided clients it is advisable to come ‘tooled up’ for climbing straight from the ferry as all of your main luggage is delivered to our accommodation in ‘Lundy time’, which can take some hours! It should be stressed that the final day’s climbing be appropriate to the departure time of the ferry (it will not wait for you!), so do plan accordingly. It is expected that non-guided clients are fully conversant with the adventurous nature of the climbing on the Island and that they are competent to operate as an independent climbing pair. No equipment, instruction or supervision is provided. Advice re suitable routes / venues and approaches is available from Rob.

Food and accommodation

The accommodation varies, depending on the numbers on the trip / availability but they all have a unique character. Self-catering is the best option though there is food available in the Tavern. They also serve breakfast.

After a full day’s climbing you may be ready for a few beers at the Tavern! Or if you prefer a quieter night you can just relax in the accommodation and enjoy the retelling of the day’s climbing adventures.

Travel to and from the mainland

The outbound sailing, can be from either Ilfracombe or Bideford and it is usual for clients to drive down and stay overnight locally rather than attempt a very early dash from the SE. There are many B&B’s locally or convenient campsites, if you prefer.

The return sailing is due can sometimes land you at a different port to the one you initially left from but a coach is provided,


If you have an interest in joining a Lundy 2018 adventure please e-mail me at TouchtheRock@outlook.com