The Lundy experience ‘10 
(DTBA)
For those new to this annual trip, Lundy, lying off the North Devon coast, has long been a special venue for climbers with a sense of adventure. As early as the late 1890’s Tom Longstaff visited the island but sadly no records exist of his exploits. The first recorded ascents by climbers, was not until 1961 and since then Lundy has been the site of many an adventure!
The rock is granite and varies from superb to exfoliating gravel but worry not, the guidebook is well packed with starred quality routes! Grades on the island start around severe, though to get the most from the venue climbing VS and above opens up many fine routes. With 2008’s new guide there are new classics in the making ready to be bagged. Most of the island’s venues require involved and sometimes serious approaches. It is not the place for the faint of heart.
Getting to Lundy is an adventure in itself, with the graceful MS Oldenburg ferry, taking visitors this year, from Ilfracombe. Once on the island you are transported back to earlier times with no roads, no cars, only fresh air and wildlife to enjoy, oh and there’s some climbing too!
Other amenities include the island shop and the, atmospheric, Marisco Tavern which serves a fine selection of beers. One of the Marisco’s quirks is a £1 fine if you dare use your mobile whilst in the Tavern!
Trip options
For Lundy ’10 you can either choose a guided or non-guided trip. Both include Ferry, accommodation and full board.
Guided
The trip commences as soon as we land (sailing time TBA) so clients will need to have in their hand luggage appropriate kit for an afternoon’s climbing. This should include food and drink + enough space for a rope. Your main luggage is delivered to your accommodation so don’t leave any essential items in your big bag. Three full days climbing follow and sailing times usually permit a morning’s climb prior to departure finishing off the trip. So in effect you get 4 days climbing! A full kit list is provided upon booking (all ropes and rack are provided).
Non-guided
As with guided clients it is advisable to come ‘tooled up’ for climbing straight from the ferry as all of your main luggage is delivered to our accommodation in ‘Lundy time’, which can take some hours! It should be stressed that the final day’s climbing be appropriate to the departure time of the ferry (it will not wait for you!), so do plan accordingly. It is expected that non-guided clients are fully conversant with the adventurous nature of the climbing on the Island and that they are competent to operate as an independent climbing pair. No equipment, instruction or supervision is provided. Advice re suitable routes / venues and approaches is available from Rob.
The accommodation
This year we are returning to Millcombe House, which dominates the approach to the island. The largest building on the island, Millcombe House, built in 1835, sleeps 12 and has a roomy feel to it. The large dining room allows for very sociable meal times and the comfortable lounge space to chill out in the evenings.
Breakfasts are full English and your packed lunch, DIY. After a full day’s climbing you will be ready to sit down for a filling evening meal (wine provided). If you have the energy you can make tracks up to the Tavern, though do take a torch, as the steps back down can be treacherous after a few beers! If you prefer a quieter night you can just relax in the sitting room reading or enjoying the telling of climbing tales. Electricity is switched off between midnight and 6am so remember to bring a torch or some candles!
Travel to and from the mainland
The outbound sailing, is from Ilfracombe and it is usual for clients to drive down and stay overnight locally rather than attempt a very early dash from the SE. There are many B&B’s locally or convenient campsites, if you prefer.
The return sailing is due to land at Bideford. This is obviously not where our transport is, however, a coach is provided to deliver clients to the port of their outward journey.
In the event of rough seas it may be necessary to be airlifted to or from the Island by helicopter. If this occurs there will be an additional subsidised fee of £22.
Cost
Guided - (TBA)
Includes: Ferry, 4 nights full board, three and two half days instruction and supervision.
Non-guided - (TBA)
Includes: Ferry, 4 nights full board. Three full days and two half days of climbing, advice re routes / venues.
Booking
In order to secure your place a deposit (£100) and booking forms are needed ASAP. A second instalment of £100 is required by 1st May ’10 and a final payment of the outstanding balance by July 1st ’10.
If you have an interest in joining the Lundy ’10 adventure please e-mail me at rob@sugarmouse.co.uk. Places are strictly limited and places allotted on a ‘first come first served’ basis.
